Converting Gauntlet to JAMMA

Parts and Tools

This page describes the parts and tools required to run Gauntlet in a JAMMA cabinet - click on the pictures to see an enlarged image.

Pretty much everything here can be purchased from Bob Roberts, although they can also be purchased from your local electronic supply store.

Parts list:

A Gauntlet or Gauntlet II PCB
I have the two-player version of Gauntlet, which is designed for 2-player cabinets and allows you to select the character you want. You can use the 4-player version of Gauntlet, but you will need to swap connectors on the board to switch between different characters. Gauntlet II, of course, does not have this problem, as each player selects their own character at the start of the game.

An Amp 12-pin Mate and Lok connector (part #1-480708-0)
This is a standard 12-pin connector by Amp.

Four 11-pin .100" inline Molex connectors with pins (Part #08-50-0114)
These are used for the video, control panel, and sound wiring. I couldn't find 11-pin connectors, so I bought 12-pin connectors, and cut off the extra pin.

One 6-pin .100" inline Molex connector with pins
This is used for the connection to the coin switches. You can also use a larger connector (such as an 11-pin or 12-pin connector) and just cut off the extra pins.

Wire and a JAMMA fingerboard
You will need lots of wire - about 50 feet total. I used stranded wire, as I think it crimps more easily. I recommend using 18 gauge wire for the power wires that connect to the 12-pin Amp connector (5V, Ground, 12V, -5V) and 22 gauge wire for everything else (video, coin switches, etc). You can also use 20 gauge wire everywhere, but it's a little too big to fit in the .100 inline Molex connectors - I didn't have any 22 gauge wire, so I used 20 gauge wire instead, so you can make it work with a little bit of trouble.
You'll also need a JAMMA fingerboard. You can get these from lots of people, but I prefer the pre-drilled fingerboards sold by Andy Rusenovich.

Wire Ties
You can get these for a couple of bucks from Radio Shack. You'll be very glad you bought them, as otherwise your connector wires will get all tangled up with each other.

2 Resistors (optional)
The Gauntlet PCB generates unamplified stereo sound. These are used when wiring up the stereo sound through a single external amplifier in a mono cabinet. They are not needed if the external sound board is used, or if dual external amplifiers are used in a stereo cabinet.

Tools required:

Crimping Tool
You'll need a crimping tool that handles Molex and Amp connectors. I purchased the Waldom HT1921 from Bob Roberts, and it seems to work quite well on 18-22 gauge wires. It'll cut and strip wires as well, but I prefer to use my own wire cutter and stripper. You'll need to crimp over 40 wires, so make sure you get a good tool.

Soldering Iron
You'll need a soldering iron to connect the wires to the JAMMA fingerboard. It's also possible to connect the wires to a 56-pin Molex edge connector, and use a fingerboard to connect the edge connector to the one in your cabinet, and avoid soldering altogether. But I like to solder.

Got all your parts together? Then click here to learn how to wire up the Power and Video connectors...

Last updated on Sep 12, 1999
drews-arcade_AT_aqualion.net

	A Gauntlet or Gauntlet II PCB I have the two-player version of Gauntlet, which is designed for 2-player cabinets and allows you to select the character you want. You can use the 4-player version of Gauntlet, but you will need to swap connectors on the board to switch between different characters. Gauntlet II, of course, does not have this problem, as each player selects their own character at the start of the game.
	An Amp 12-pin Mate and Lok connector (part #1-480708-0) This is a standard 12-pin connector by Amp.
	Four 11-pin .100" inline Molex connectors with pins (Part #08-50-0114) These are used for the video, control panel, and sound wiring. I couldn't find 11-pin connectors, so I bought 12-pin connectors, and cut off the extra pin.
	One 6-pin .100" inline Molex connector with pins This is used for the connection to the coin switches. You can also use a larger connector (such as an 11-pin or 12-pin connector) and just cut off the extra pins.
	Wire and a JAMMA fingerboard You will need lots of wire - about 50 feet total. I used stranded wire, as I think it crimps more easily. I recommend using 18 gauge wire for the power wires that connect to the 12-pin Amp connector (5V, Ground, 12V, -5V) and 22 gauge wire for everything else (video, coin switches, etc). You can also use 20 gauge wire everywhere, but it's a little too big to fit in the .100 inline Molex connectors - I didn't have any 22 gauge wire, so I used 20 gauge wire instead, so you can make it work with a little bit of trouble. You'll also need a JAMMA fingerboard. You can get these from lots of people, but I prefer the pre-drilled fingerboards sold by Andy Rusenovich.
	Wire Ties You can get these for a couple of bucks from Radio Shack. You'll be very glad you bought them, as otherwise your connector wires will get all tangled up with each other.
	2 Resistors (optional) The Gauntlet PCB generates unamplified stereo sound. These are used when wiring up the stereo sound through a single external amplifier in a mono cabinet. They are not needed if the external sound board is used, or if dual external amplifiers are used in a stereo cabinet.

	Crimping Tool You'll need a crimping tool that handles Molex and Amp connectors. I purchased the Waldom HT1921 from Bob Roberts, and it seems to work quite well on 18-22 gauge wires. It'll cut and strip wires as well, but I prefer to use my own wire cutter and stripper. You'll need to crimp over 40 wires, so make sure you get a good tool.
	Soldering Iron You'll need a soldering iron to connect the wires to the JAMMA fingerboard. It's also possible to connect the wires to a 56-pin Molex edge connector, and use a fingerboard to connect the edge connector to the one in your cabinet, and avoid soldering altogether. But I like to solder.